Rene Redzepi’s Copenhagen restaurant, Noma, won best in the world four times. But his style trumps any location
The world’s best cook takes on the taco
Before seasonal became the byword for every new restaurant hoping to create a mystique thick enough to attract well-heeled hipsters, noma.dk was foraging alone in Denmark. The trainee from the renowned French Laundry in California was only 25 when he was tapped to head up a new restaurant on the harbour in Copenhagen. His tours yielded seasonal recipes such as carrot sautéed in goat’s butter with chamomile sprigs; or oysters steamed with greens gathered on the nearby beach.
The reaction was unanimous: Restaurant magazine named Noma best restaurant in the world in 2010-12, and 2014.
Following successful pop-ups in Tokyo and Sydney, Redzepi, 39, and his staff have been touring Mexico, gathering ingredients and ideas, before a seven-week residency in Tulum. Expect a couple of innovative variations on tacos, tortillas and tamales when it opens between April 12 and May 28, but don’t expect to get in. Tickets – priced at $600 – sold out within a day.