The World’s Best Cook Takes on the TacoRené Redzepi’s Copenhagen restaurant won best in the world four times. But his style trumps any location.
Before seasonal became the byword for every new restaurant hoping to create a mystique thick enough to attract well-heeled hipsters, René Redzepi was foraging alone in Scandinavia. The French Laundry trainee was only 23 when he was tapped to head up a new restaurant on the harbor in Copenhagen.
His tours yielded seasonal recipes such as carrot sautéed in goats butter with chamomile sprigs, or oysters steamed with greens gathered on the nearby beach, including seaweed. The reaction was unanimous: Restaurant magazine named Noma the best restaurant in the world in 2010-12 and 2014.
Following successful pop-up renditions in Tokyo and Sydney, Redzepi, 39, and his staff have been traveling across Mexico, gathering ingredients and ideas. Expect a couple of crazy variations on tacos and the corn dough masa when Noma’s Tulum residency takes place between April 12 and May 28, but don’t expect to get in. Tickets — priced at $600 — sold out within a day.